“Our food has changed more in the last 50 years than it has in the last 10,000.” So begins Food, Inc., a short and incomplete documentary about industrial food production and the alternatives to it. This is not, if you think these labels are somewhat negative, a “green” or environmentalist video essay. It is at least trying to raise the question, “Do you know where your food comes from?”
Of course most people don’t want to envision the slaughterhouse, nor is the slaughterhouse in and of itself an evil. Obviously the cow or the chicken has to be killed. But Food, Inc. is concerned with how the cow or the chicken is raised and then turned into food. The image of a farm environment does not correspond with reality, the movie says. As it points out, most packaging at the supermarket implements a pastoral fantasy of a red barn, a older, friendly farmer, and green and golden fields. And yet almost every cow or chicken these days is raised in a controlled environment in which bacteria (e.g., E coli) can be easily transmitted.
The movie ranges through a host of subjects, some of which are not directly on the topic of food production. And yet it does not talk about most food production. No mention is made of fruits and vegetables, or anything in a brightly colored box. Mostly the subjects are meat and poultry and corn. The movie points out that corn is used in a majority of foods and grocery products. It is subsidized so heavily that beef and poultry corporations can buy corn below the cost of production, which they feed to their animals. This is a problem, the movie argues, because cows (for example) are meant to eat grass and yet corn-fed cattle are particularly susceptible to E coli.
Here is one place where the movie strays and neglects to give much information. One advocate for food safety, a mother whose child died from an E coli infection due to the consumption of a hamburger, is featured prominently. She tells her story, there is much pathos for her dead son’s story, and yet we do not see or hear the number of E coli infections and the likelihood of contraction. We know that she, the advocate, is lobbying Congress — and is up against corporate interests which supposedly dominate Congress — but we do not come close to understanding the full scope of this issue.
Yet we do learn that food production is centrally controlled by a handful of multinational corporations, whose end goal is profit and the means to get there is increased efficiency and, if that doesn’t fully work, control of food legislation passed in Congress and state legislatures. Monsanto comes off particularly poorly. Owner of a patent for genetically modified soybeans, Monsanto strictly enforces its legal right to be the sole manufacturer of soybean seeds. Farmers, then, must buy seeds from Monsanto every year, rather than save seeds from one year’s harvest and use them in the next. Here it is apparent that Monsanto enjoys the federal government’s monopoly privilege and reaps the rewards, while farmers have mostly lost the understanding of how to save and engineer their own seeds, and when they try to, they face Monsanto’s wrath in the form of a lawsuit.
Just as shady, though not directly related to the topic of food production, are food corporations’ use of illegal immigrants. Once again enjoying government privilege, these corporations are never raided for widespread use of illegals (who are paid rock bottom wages). Instead the illegals themselves are captured 10-15 at a time, at their own residence, even if they’ve worked for their company for decades, so as to not interrupt production in the factories and to avoid a P.R. mess. The movie argues that NAFTA caused a flood of cheap, subsidized U.S. corn into Mexico, which put millions of Mexican corn farmers out of business, causing them to relocate to the United States.
Food, Inc. is clearly on the side of “organic” food production, which, using only one example of a Pennsylvania farmer, is supposedly just as efficient but safer and more wholesome. This farmer is perhaps the star of the movie, uttering such profundities as,”A culture that just uses a pig as a pile of protoplasmic inanimate structure, to be manipulated by whatever creative design the human can foist on that critter, will probably view individuals within its community, and other cultures in the community of nations, with the same type of disdain and disrespect and controlling type mentalities.”
Unlike most expose documentaries, this one actually ends optimistically. We are encouraged to know what we are eating, to buy organic, to start a garden, and if nothing else, to ask why we do what we do. Perhaps that’s the ultimate value of watching Food, Inc.
Entertainment: 10
Intelligence: 6
Morality: —